Blogging about this dish is the culinary equivalent of: You and I driving in the car, and me exclaiming that I like a “new” song.
As I have contemplated my ability to contribute regularly to “Much Depends on Dinner,” one drawback is that it exposes my focused reliance on certain chefs at various stages in my cooking life. Jeremiah Towers and his blackberry duck were replaced by the smoky flavors of Ana Sortun, who has been dethroned by Suzanne Goin and all her chile d’arbols. This dish was perhaps the most reviewed recipe from “Sunday Suppers at Lucques” after its 2005 release.
While paradigmatic of her cooking style—unexpected, rich and satisfying, time consuming—also not my favorite of her dishes. Perhaps because I didn’t make the accompanying lamb, and her dishes are always best when made with their recommended pairings, the potatoes were super tasty, but only that.
Adapted from Suzanne Goin
1-1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
5 whole unpeeled cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
6 sprigs thyme, plus 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Romesco recipe (from BBQ post)
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Put potatoes in a roasting pan and toss with olive oil, 5 whole cloves garlic, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and 1 heaping teaspoon salt. Cover tightly with foil and roast until potatoes are tender, about 50-60 minutes. Personally, I like it when potatoes get all browned and crispy, and would recommend roasting until browned.
3. Flatten the potatoes with your hands. Place a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the potatoes and season with thyme leaves, salt, and pepper. Fry the potatoes until crispy, 6-8 minutes, then turn to brown on all sides.
4. When potatoes are browned, return them to the pan and add romesco sauce and roasted garlic cloves. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.